Chilean Chronicles, Part 91: Becky Simpson's Counsel and a Full Life

In the nearly quarter century that I knew her, Becky Simpson, known to many as the "Mother Theresa of Applachia," taught me many lessons. She taught me that visions can come true after she had had an image of a mountain of food, a mountain of clothing and a molehill of money-and all three happened at the Cranks Creek Survival Center she co-founded with her husband Bobby.

She taught me about how far a sense of righteous indignation at society's inequities and a seemingly bottomless well of compassion and giving can flower and touch people from around the world.

She taught me that fierce and gentle can exist in equal measure in the same person.

She taught me that meaningful moments shared cut across all kinds of lines.

She also taught me about how people can endure and move through unimaginable suffering and come out bruised, but intact, on the other side.

This last lesson came after I asked her how she had been able to survive so much-a third grade education, the death of her younger brother and one of her six children, a profoundly damaged back, the most grinding of poverty, Bobby's blindness, floods that wiped out her home and a devastating car accident are only among the most noteworthy-and still continue both to extend an open hand to help those who needed it and to fight for justice.

How do you do it? I asked as we sat around the kitchen table where we spent many, many hours talking.

I was waiting for a lengthy explanation of social justice tactics.

Becky gave me nothing of the sort.

Rest and try again, she said, her clear blue eyes filled with hard-earned wisdom.

I'm trying to draw on Becky's counsel these days, when things are popping on many fronts, to put it mildly.

I'm working to pull my Data Journalism course together for the final month and to work with potential replacement Daniela Cartagena to make sure that she has what she needs to feel oriented and to continue the burgeoning tradition we're starting to establish at the University of Diego Portales.

I'm coordinating a presentation of my research into the impact of the landmark 2009 Transparency Law on the country with Antonio Campana, Yunuen Varela, and the rest of the folks at the Fulbright Commission.

I'm writing one post a week for Hoy in both Spanish and English, and working to maintain a similar pace with the Huffington Post in English.

I just sent off tonight an 8,000-word chapter that Dunreith, Gabriele Thimm, Dad and I wrote about our trip in May 2012 to Dad's hometown in Germany for a book based on the Engaging the Other conference at which we presented in South Africa in December 2012.

Dunreith and I are working out the logistics for trips that we'll take to Peru, the desert in northern Chile and the glaciers in the southern part of the country during the month that Aidan is here.

After receiving an email from high school friend Tamera Coyne-Beasley about the possibility of our class holding a 30th reunion, I reached out on Facebook to classmates to see if there was any interest in having such an event. This sparked a chain of events that has led in the past two weeks to the formation of a Facebook group with more than 150 members, the discovery that our class has had $559 since our tenth reunion in 1993, and the impending delivery of a class directory courtesy of the Brookline High School Alumni Association.

I'm gearing up for my brother Jon coming here for a couple of weeks for us to work on a journalism project, all the while trying to keep this space going.

This says nothing of following up and making plans to learn from and collaborate with, the talented, dedicated, courageous and inspiring journalists I met at the Global Investigative Journalism conference last month in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

And I'm trying to keep my writing going here and in another book project.

I don't offer this list either to brag or to complain.

It's hard for me to express how fortunate I feel on so many levels to be with Dunreith at this point in our lives and in the nation's history.

Rather it's to say that tending to all of these varied projects can leave me feeling alternately drained and scattered and to my head swirling with the myriad details to which I need to attend.

Which brings me back to Becky.

This afternoon Dunreith and I slogged through about three hours worth of checking out websites, reviews and options for each of the three trips we're taking starting at the end of this month.

My eyelids were starting to hang heavy as we sat on the lower level of the Starbucks on Pedro de Valdivia Street.

My response time and accuracy was diminishing, my irritability rising.

I've got to head back to the apartment, I told Dunreith, who was feeling the same way.

We loaded up our computers and cords and adapters into my red backpack, walked down Providencia Avenue, greeted the doormen and gratefully laid down on our bed.

The pain in my jaw that accompanies my starting to meditate began its inexorable rhythm.

My breath grew deeper.

My thoughts started to slow down.

I woke up forty minutes later.

My head was groggy, and, within 20 minutes, it started to clear.

After an hour, I felt fully recharged.

I kept contacting people to interview for the project.

Dunreith and I had dinner and watched the latest dark episode in the third season of Los 80, Andres Wood's look at a pivotal decade in Chilean history through the eyes of a middle-class family.

I called mentor and friend Paul Tamburello and filled him in on my doings.

I went downstairs, pumped away on the exercise bike and stretched on the rug-covered floor.

I came back up to write this piece.

It's close to 1:00 a.m. and I'm starting to fade again.

It's time once to more to heed Becky's words.

It's time to rest.

And, in the morning, to try again.

Chilean Chronicles, Part VIII: A Day in Five Parts

The days are getting awfully rich here, and we’ve barely been here 10 days. Breakfast with Santiago Times

Today’s adventures began early over breakfast at Emporio La Rosa in Bellas Artes, a funky, artsy neighborhood situated right between downtown Santiago and our Providencia neighborhood.

Dunreith and I left our place at about 7:15, and, after a brisk walk and some direction asking the old fashioned way-translation: we asked people where to go rather than consulting our cell phones or GPS-we arrived at our destination. Steve Anderson, founder and publisher of the Santiago Times, a longstanding English-only publication that has been online since its inception in 1989, was there to meet us.

Steve, a Texas and Arkansas native with curly, graying hair and a flowery shirt from his recently ended family vacation in Mexico, started the publication a couple of years after arriving toward the end of the Pinochet regime. He came to Chile in 1987 to do social justice work and has been here ever since.

Steve Anderson of the Santiago Times.

He’s raised a family, bought a farm in Puerto Montt in the southern part of the country with turkeys and hens, and purchased three apartments in Santiago.

One of them houses the paper, which has grown from Steve’s hobby to a well-respected operation that is currently staffed by a blond Aussie editor named Joe Hincliffe, a bearded business manager from Bangor, Maine named Cort Hepler and a rotation of anywhere from eight to 10 interns, most of whom stay for three-month stints.

Cort Hepler and Joe Hinchcliffe of the Santiago Times.

Steve spoke with pride of Times alums who used their time at the paper as a training ground to orient themselves in Latin America, and who have gone on to work at high-profile outfits like Reuters and Bloomberg elsewhere on the continent.

It’s a financial struggle, though.

Like media enterprises the world over, this one is thinking hard about how to have a viable future.

Over some tasty tostadas with avocado, we identified possible areas of collaboration and specific next steps.

Fulbright Chat

We took a quick jaunt a couple of blocks to check out the apartment/office and then walked with Cort to the Metro stop before zipping north to meet with Antonio Campana, the Fulbright Commission Director here in Chile, and Yunuen Varela, who provided absolutely invaluable logistical assistance for us in the months leading up to our flight two Thursdays ago.

Yunuen Varela and Antonio Campana of the Chilean Fulbright Commission.

We chatted pleasantly for an hour about the upcoming Fulbright orientation, the state of Chilean journalism and the impending presidential election. Antonio pointed out that former President Michelle Bachelet is trying to do what has not been accomplished in Chile in the more than two decades of post-dictatorship democracy: win a second term.

By law Chilean presidents are only allowed to serve a single term, something Bachelet did from 2006 to 2010.

Although there was a time early in her tenure when her approval rating was quite low, when she left it was at more than 80 percent.

It’s stayed there since, and, as Antonio pointed out, her strategy to avoid having it fall appears to be to make as few public appearances and comments as possible-a latter-day version of the “Rose Garden” tactic Jimmy Carter used to win the 1980 Democratic primaries.

Antonio went so far as to say that a very high percentage of the Chilean voting electorate, when asked, would be unable to explain Bachelet’s political program or the key issues on which she plans to focus, if elected to a second term in office.

His theory in part was that, as opposed to her first campaign, the far left parties are supporting her, and thus she wants to say as little as possible to alienate any members of her coalition.

He attributed Bachelet’s enduring popularity to many Chileans’ identifying with her personal journey of enduring her father’s being killed because he stayed loyal to the country's constitution and to democratically-elected President Salvador Allende in the face of the Pinochet coup, enduring torture, having gone into exile and then having returned. At the same time, he noted that she has been working steadily to increase her own power for the past three decades.

For her part, Yunuen said she was excited that for the first time in Chilean history there are two major presidential candidates who are women.

Mercado Providencia

The conversation wound down, we headed back to the apartment well equipped with a blue Fulbright Chile bag, a to-go coffee mug and a bunch of brochures. A little while later, went to Mercado Providencia, a covered market whose vendors sell all kinds of fresh fruit, vegetables, fish, chicken and meat as well as, in some cases, homemade prepared foods.

Lunchtime at Mercado Providencia.

Dunreith and I followed a tip we had received and purchased piping hot empanadas from Empanadas Tinita, an empanaderia that we went to just in time because the line stretched to more than two dozen people who waited patiently for their freshly prepared concoctions.

They weren’t disappointed.

Dunreith went for cheese and mushroom, while I had the mariscos, or shrimp, that also had what we are learning of standard ingredients of hefty servings of onions along with eggs and black olives with seeds.

Empanadas being wrapped up at Empanadas Tinita.

We like to ride our bicycles

Happily sated, we took advantage of the unseasonally warm weather to take our initial ride on the bicycles friends Miguel Huerta and Maca Rodriguez lent us the day after we landed in Santiago.

It took a while to unlock the bikes, adjust the seats and take them to a local bike store to get the tires pumped, and soon enough we were off.

Pumping up tires at Ola Holanda bicycle shop.

It’s safe to say that it was a very different experience than our traditional jaunt down Lake Shore Drive’s bike path.

To begin, the bikes are much heavier than the ones we have in the United States, our seats kept sliding down as if they had their own will, we stopped repeatedly because of traffic lights, and the terrain is generally much more urban, with plenty of walkers, children, parents and cars with which to contend.

None of it mattered, as once again starting the endless rhythm of cycle stirred something deep and visceral within me.

We returned the bikes to our former apartment, got the makings for a quick snack and then walked down to the Movistar building where I had been invited to talk about our work with data at Hoy.

Data Tuesday

They took place on the second floor of the Movistar Innova building, an incubator zone for startups that had the requisite rows of casually dressed, potential entrepreneurs hunched over the Macbooks and talking in sing-song tones before the presentations began. in a long, high-ceilinged room with images of yellow, orange, pink and white balloons and bordered at each end by semi-circular arches. One part at the front of the room showed the time down to the second, while another at the back automatically calculated the number of people in the room at that moment. (The number ranged from 58 to 60 during the course of the evening.)

I spoke during my presentation about our evolution with data and as a team during the past three years, how we’ve moved from doing very little with data in 2010 to creating infographics in the daily two-page center spread, online photo galleries and a interactive map in 2011. I then explained how in 2012 we hired videographers, produced the Crunch Time series, created Google Fusion Maps, embedded tables in our posts from Google Docs and used Document Cloud to annotate our stories, before moving onto this year, when we built an in-house television studio and our remarkable intern Wil Morales became the driving force behind our food inspections application.

The other presentations were from Nicolas Kaiser-Bril, a French data journalist who started Journalism++, a company that does customized data visualizations and who has also developed free tools like Data Wrapper; Alvaro Graves from the winning team of a recent scrapeathon held in late June who in eight hours built an impressive site designed for parents and policymakers that looks at schools quality, distance and cost in Santiago; and Francisco Kemeny who owns a company named Black Sheep. He gave a very provocative look at big data, social media and choosing metrics that actually matter. (When I told him about being able to write an 800-word piece in Hoy, he said that he could do it in seven Tweets.).

Nicolas Kayser-Bril speaks at Data Tuesday.

Alvaro Graves speaks at Data Tuesday.

Francisco Kemeny of Black Sheep speaks at Data Tuesday at Movistar Innova.

The talks stimulated a bunch of questions, and the conversation continued afterward over tortillas, croquettes, fine wine and absolutely delicious egg custard and a creamy cheesecake- like dessert with strawberry flavor and a flaky crust delivered in a small cup and a smaller spoon

I spoke with Claudia, a reporter from El Mostrador who is very committed to reporting about the intense concentration of power in Chile, knows very little about data, and wants to attend the course I'm going to teach.

We also met Raul, a Colombian programmer from Cali who moved here to work for the big boys, is doing freelance work in Javascript and said there are a lot of high-quality coders in Colombia, Brazil, Argentina and Peru because those companies have large populations and faltering economies.

Raul contrasted the resources and opportunities for graduates here in Chile compared his country, saying that students here have the luxury of studying what they want and what interests them. In Colombia, he said, young people have to focus on making enough money to support their families.

This sparked a sharp response from Claudia, who cited the high percentage of people in Chile who barely make enough money to get by.

Raul rejoined, talking about the large number of Afro-Colombians who come to Chile chasing an updated version of the American Dream who ended up exploited and without the work they so desperately seek. (I wrote earlier about Donde Mi Negro, a restaurant owned by an Afro-Colombian who, like Raul, comes from Cali.)

Things were really starting to get interesting, especially since the woman serving the desserts had brought out one of the cheesecake ones just for me that blended just perfectly with the rich red wine I had already consumed.

But the crowd was starting to leave, and we did so, too.

It was fine with me.

Although I was not like the guy in the famous “Better get me a bucket” scene of Monty Python fame, I had already had way more than enough material to digest for the next couple of days.

We walked down to the first floor, said our goodbyes in English, French and Spanish to the people who spoke those languages, and once more strode to our apartment, the cool evening air hitting our faces as we went.

We didn't even want to contemplate what things will be like in December.