Chilean Chronicles, Part 89: October Behind, November Ahead

Our journey just keeps expanding.

If September was about an unprecedented eruption of memory on the fortieth anniversary of the Pinochet coup followed by a week-long celebration of the nation's independence, October was marked by journeys to countries and places we had never been.

We flew first to Rio for the Global Investigative Journalism Conference.

Traveling to Brazil was by itself a remarkable experience, and what struck me even more was being in a community of 1,300 investigative journalists from 90 countries around the planet.

It was like a wedding in which all of the guests loved to dig dirt on public officials, Four days of conversations begun and interrupted, but no one took offense.

Though these interactions I met colleagues whose work in countries where, as opposed to the United States, there are no laws requiring authorities to produce the information they request.

Journalists whose work in revealing the truth about what is happening are met with threats or blackmail.

Like a female journalist from Azerbaijan whose revelations of malfeasance by the president's family prompted authorities to plant a hidden camera in her bedroom and record her intimate moments with her boyfriend.

Or a young woman from Iraq who conceals her identity to preserve her safety.

Or a new friend from Brazil who traveled up and down the nation's borders to expose the trafficking and abuse of children.

Their dedication and courage and resilience moved and inspired me.

I returned from Rio to teach, but Dunreith continued to Brasilia, where she spent rich and relaxing days with her former student Veronica and her family.

A week later, we flew to Buenos Aires with its wide tree-lined boulevards and European-influenced elegance to meet Dad and Lee before they embarked on a 17-day tour that will take them down to the continent's southernmost point and around into Chile.

We saw the groups of mothers who have marched since the beginning of Argentina's Dirty War, waging a ceaseless struggle to learn the whereabouts of their disappeared children and husbands and brothers and sister, calling over and over again for those who ordered and carried out these heinous actions to be brought to justice.

We visited the detention center at ESMA, the former naval school, the largest of the country's network of hundreds of sites where Argentines were tortured and killed.

About 5,000 detainees entered ESMA.

Only 200 survived.

But we also visited Cafe Tortoni, the continent's oldest cafe that oozed with Old World charm and swagger, a place where poets and artists and writers and dancers and plain folk have come for more than a century and a half.

We had lunch at El Ateneo, the former theater turned bookstore that in 2008 was named one of the world's most beautiful bookstores.

We had a parillada, a plate of all kinds of meat, with Colombian friend and fearless journalist Jenny Manrique in the Palermo Hollywood neighborhood. The plate was filled so high with ribs and chicken and sausage that a friend of Facebook deadpanned that she gained five pounds just by looking at it.

I visited and learned from the folks at La Nacion, the country's second-largest newspaper and a place where the data team is showing remarkable persistence and creativity in accessing, cleaning and displaying data online and in the newspaper.

All of us soaked in the energy and openness and generosity of the Argentine people we met and whose eyes showed their pleasure when we told them how excited we were to be in their country.

We also traveled to Colonia, Uruguay, a town of just 25,000 a ferry ride and a country away from Buenos Aires. Together we strolled along the cobble-stoned streets in the community that alternated between Portuguese and Spanish control nine times during the years 1680 to 1825, when the nation won its independence from Spain.

We spoke with our tour guide Maria, a woman with short, pulled-back brown hair and a blue pants suit, about why Uruguayans twice had voted against reversing a law that granted amnesty to the leaders who ruled the country during the dictatorship from 1973 to 1985.

There was a war, she said. People did bad things on both sides.

And, at the end of the month, Jon and I learned that our application to gain funding to use the upcoming elections here in Chile to explore the degree to which the country's past lives in the present had been accepted.

Each of these experiences, each of these journeys to places which for years had only been places on a map and not somewhere that we would actually visit, has meant something.

Each conversation and encounter with someone with whom I have a shared passion for story and uncovering and sharing truth, has mattered.

They've mattered because they've contributed to a continually widening and deepening yet also shrinking sense of the world and of the interconnection of people who come from different backgrounds and cultures and classes and races and languages, but who share values and commitments and beliefs.

October's behind us.

November begins today.

I'm optimistic that the expansion will continue.

Chilean Chronicles, Part 83: The Madres of the Plaza de Mayo

The mothers of the disappeared have been marching at Buenos Aires' Plaza de Mayo for more than 36 years.

Meeting in plain view of the Casa Rosada, or the Pink House, the name for the Argentine presidential place, since April 30, 1977.

Demanding a full accounting of, and justice for, their sons and daughters who were disappeared during Argentina's "Dirty War" that lasted from 1976 to 1983.

The government put the figure of the number of people who were tortured before being killed and having their bodies disposed of in rural areas or unmarked graves at about 9,000 to 11,000, but the mothers say the total is closer to 30,000.

They have marched during the 1978 World Cup that Argentina hosted and won.

They have marched during the transition to democracy that saw President Carlos Menem sign an amnesty law that absolved the leaders of the military regime of their crimes.

They marched during the split of their group into two-those who accepted money from the government as partial compensation for the deaths of their loved ones and those who continue to call for a full accounting for what happened.

They have marched when President Nestor Kirchner overturned the amnesty law and opened the door for more prosecutions of top-ranking generals.

And they marched today.

Dunreith and I arrived at the plaza this afternoon shortly after 3:00 p.m.

The sun was strong, the sky nearly cloudless.

We had already absorbed some of the city's ample, European-based charm, walking past classic-looking stone buildings on the wide boulevard on the way to El Ateneo, a magical former theater turned bookstore/cafe.

Two of the mothers were on the periphery of the circle where the women march standing under a blue tent, where they sold books, pens, and other materials about the disappeared.

I asked if they could answer some questions about their experiences.

They were working, they said, and couldn't took.

The Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo-Founding Line, the group that had accepted financial compensation from the government, marched first.

Five women, including two mother wearing white head scarves, toted a white banner with the group's name on it as they marched around and around the square.

Younger supporters marched with them. A half dozen carried black and white pictures of their loved ones with them.

This included a woman with a bullhorn who called out disappeared people's names.

"Presente," the group answered in unison.

Present.

Even though their loved one were not physically there, the mothers were saying that they were present.

The Mothers of the Plaza of Mayo Association went next.

Their group was larger, and led by ten women also wearing white head scarves.

They carried a blue banner with white letter that said, "Until Victory Always Beloved Children."

Their scarves had the words, "Appearance with life, the disappeared, Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo" stitched in a blue cross-stitch.

Many of the mother wore glasses and walked with a slow stiffness.

But there was nothing stiff about the way many jointed the crowd behind them in waving their fists, chanted and sang songs about the mother having power and being in the square, about their work being a national project.

Around and around they marched, adding yet another chapter to their ceaseless struggle of witness and justice.

They stopped after about half a dozen laps before standing next to the tent.

The crowd applauded the madres loudly before Evel de Petrini addressed them.

De Petrini, who has searched for her son since the group began, spoke about Sunday's elections.

She said the voters had to evaluate who would actually do what they said they would do before urging everyone to vote for Christine Kirchner, the current president and widow of the former leader.

The crowd cheered again.

Her speech concluded and the group mingled before starting to disperse.

Many of the mother filad back into the white van with the name of the group painted on the side.

Like several others, I stayed outside the roped area that had been set up to give the mothers space to walk into the van.

It had the effect of making them look like stars walking down the red carpet.

A few lone fans clapped again as they went by.

A pair of mothers hugged.

The two women underneath the tent kept selling.

Martha Minow wrote in the introduction to her book Between Vengeance and Forgiveness that no act by the government can bring closure to the kind of wounds these women have experienced because any gesture is by definition insufficient.

But they are also necessary.

These women, all of whom are aging, some of whom are physically frail, have not yet achieved the justice they seek.

But they've also never given up.

In their fierce and unwavering commitment, they've not only honored the memory of their murdered children whose political ideas many have begun to adopt.

They've also provided an example for people across the globe to follow.

They've helped overturn a law that shielded the evildoers from impunity.

They've helped open the door for those people to be punished for what they did.

Any they've shown what is possible from people with comparatively meager financial resources, but a righteous and wounded sense of justice.