Chilean Chronicles, Part 75: Chile Punches Its Ticket to Brazil 2014

“Oh, viva La Mundial/La Mundial, La Mundial/Viva La Mundial,” chanted the hundreds of flag-waving, cheering Chileans at Paseo Orrego Luca in the waning seconds of the team’s final qualifying match against Ecuador. Long live the World Cup.

Their beloved squad is going to the 2014 rendition of the world’s biggest sporting event in Brazil after a hard-fought and well-deserved 2-1 victory over a game, but outmanned, Ecuadorean squad-a victory that sparked frenzied horn honking, blowing of vuvuzelas, and passionate embraces.

Playing at their National Stadium in Santiago, Chile would have qualified with a tie. But the team coached by Jorge Sampaoli punched its ticket in impressive fashion with a pair of rapid-fire first-half goal from Alexis Sanchez and Gary Medel.

Sanchez’s header off a probing cross from Eugenio Mena was a particularly elegant strike, and one that prompted him to rip off his shirt in ecstasy. Sanchez headed a ball in the box to Medel directly in front of the goal a couple of minutes, and he converted for a two-goal halftime lead.

The home squad played more conservatively in the second half, and surrendered a goal to Caceido, who benefited from a lengthy run up the middle by Antonio Valencia.

The goal caused some apprehension among the multitudes at Paseo, many of whom were enjoying hefty portions of beer and fried food, but the hosts were never seriously threatened after that.

As the minutes wore down into injury time, the chant of Viva Chile grew less anxious and increasingly confident.

Then the final whistle blew, and the eruption of celebrations began.

The Ecuadorean squad didn’t look too disappointed after the match ended, as they, too, will be headed to Brazil next year.

Chilean Chronicles, Part 76: On the Dart Panel in Rio

It was a treat to be on a panel with Marcela Turati. NOTE: I wrote this post on Sunday, but was unable to publish it due to problems with Internet connection.

Today was the second day of the Global Investigative Journalism Conference, and the international component was as strong as yesterday.

I met new colleagues from Russia, Botswana, Tanzania, and Costa Rica, among others. My teammates on our hackathon squad were from Brazil and Nigeria.

The class I taught in the late morning about the Access software included journalists from the Ukraine, Slovenia, Brazil, Colombia via Ireland, Peru, Russia, Germany, Denmark and the United States.

I rode the bus to and from the conference with Kenneth Okpomo, an award-winning journalist and creative writer from Nigeria's Delta region. Dunreith, he and I ate dinner together at the nearby shopping mall.

We talked about Fela, the iconic Nigerian singer whom we dubbed a 'decadent prophet' for the accuracy of his verses and his sybaritic lifestyle.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zN_GQFfiwS4&w=420&h=315]

Kenneth educated me about the presence of Chinese merchants in the country as well as the number of undocumented Nigerians living in South Africa who resort to 419, the name given to fraudulent activities that they conduct.

Kenneth said he cried when he saw many Nigerians in a South African restaurant eating the remains of customers' food-a measure they told him they took to survive. He also learned that many of these folks tell their families back in Nigeria that all is going well for them-a deception that also pained him.

He proudly showed me pictures of his eight-month-old daughter and his fiancée whom he will wed by January, and shared his gratitude that God has provided resources for him and, by extension, for them.

These experiences were remarkable and exhilarating, and one of the most meaningful parts of the day came during the panel about doing sensitive investigations that Dart Center for Journalism and Trauma Director and friend Bruce Shapiro convened, and on which I had the honor to participate.

Brazilian journalist Solange Azevedo and Mexican chronicler Marcela Turati were the other panelists.

Each told extraordinary stories of suffering that they had elicited and figured out to how to convey with compassion and respect.

Solange on how to listen

Solange went first.

Speaking in Portuguese that a university student translated, she told a wrenching account of finding out about, then working for months to connect with, a youth victim of torture during the Brazilian dictatorship whose parents had also been tortured.

Solange described how she built trust with the gentleman, how she went back over and over again to learn more as well as to work to verify his story.

She explained how she always used a tape recorder in order to give him her full attention.

Solange would not interrupt him, but rather would listen until he finished talking.

To do so, she said, could mean missing the most important part of the story.

This included the pauses and silences.

She talked about how worried she was before the story was published in 2010, and how gratified she was that the family said they appreciated what she wrote.

Solange told us that he man about whom she wrote killed himself in February of this year, how his family said what she had written about him was a source of comfort during the most excruciatingly painful of moments.

Marcela and her sources' dreams

Marcela followed.

She spoke in Spanish, and I translated her words into English.

She told the packed room about the work she has done for the past 15 years recounting the stories of Mexico's relentless violence, the murders and disappearances and displacements that accelerated during the drug war initiated in 2006 by former President Felipe Calderon.

She urged the audience to not think of investigations as only involving data and paper, but to get up and out and into the world.

She talked about going to a workshop run by a non-profit organization and asking if any of the people there were willing to talk with a journalist.

She found herself facing a line of 30 women, all of whom were carrying pictures of their murdered and disappeared loved ones.

Marcela explained that at moments like that, and at other moments when she felt she had made a mistake, she did not always feel equal to the task with which she had charged herself.

But she also talked about how there is no Truth Commission in Mexico, so she and others with whom she works are doing the hard and dangerous work of documenting what has happened in their country.

At the same time, she asserted that it's necessary both to represent victims not only as grieving relatives, but as people with rights for which they are fighting.

She uses a variety of techniques to enter that space with her subjects

She asks them about their dreams and, at times, simply records what she sees.

For example, as a way of denouncing the common practice of having children see the bodies of murdered loves ones before they are taken away, Marcela recorded the sounds of children playing and answering her question about what they saw.

She takes extensive care to make sure that people understand the potential consequences of going public, about how she gives them time to reflect and consult before deciding.

Marcela gives the sources the option about changing their names and addresses, and even of not having the story published

The narrative responsibility we have does not mean that we should not ask hard questions of those in government.

Connection between conflict photography and data analysis

I went last.

I talked about the importance of integrating emotions and the investigative aspect of our work, of the necessity of self-care and placing yourself in a supportive community of like-minded folk, and about a surprising discovery during our Dart Center Ochberg Fellowship conflict photographer John Moore and I made about the motivations for our work.

On the surface, even though we are in the same field, what we do could have hardly been more different.

John's one of the world top conflict photographers who's worked in dozens of countries and who shot the iconic photograph of Benazir Bhutto right before her assassination.

At the time, I was doing data-oriented race and poverty investigative work at The Chicago Reporter.

But on the morning that the fellowship ended, John talked about why he does the work he does.

It's not, he said, because he's an adrenaline junkie, as one of the speakers had suggested about war photographers.

Rather it was because he felt that if he didn't tell that story, no one else might.

John did not literally mean no single person would photograph the events he did.

Rather he was describing the responsibility he felt to go after, bear witness to, and document what was actually happening in the world.

I told him that we felt the same way at the Reporter, and that in fact we told interns nearly those identical words when they started to flinch at the seemingly endless set of record-checking that we assigned them as an integral part of our investigations.

There are moments, and there have been a number of them recently, where I literally have trouble believing my great fortune in believing alive and having the kind of experiences I'm having, where I have to step outside what I am doing for just a minute and remind myself what is actually happening.

In those moment layers of work and love and family and history and connection and passion converge in a way in which I feel that dreams have been converted into reality.

Today was one of those times.

Grateful.

Chilean Chronicles, Part 74: A glorious stew of humanity in Rio

I've had the great fortune to be around folks from all over the world, and this just may have been the most international day I've ever experienced. It started real early with walking about 30 seconds from our hotel to the beach, where Dunreith and I strolled in the sand and felt the water of the ocean lap against our ankles before splashing up on our shorts.

The people

It continued at breakfast, when we happened to sit next to Bill Buizenberg, the head of the Center for Public Integrity, and David Leigh, formerly, and apparently currently, of The Guardian in England.

On the bus from the hotel to the university where the conference is being held, I sat next to Aung, an investigative journalist from Myanmar who produces four radio broadcasts and a 30-minute television segment per day.

His wife, also a journalist, works in radio.

Aung said he's so busy that at times he doesn't see her during the day, even though they work right near each other.

But he knows that she's around because he hears her voice on the air.

In line to register for the conference I saw friends and colleagues from the investigative reporting universe in the United States.

I also met a pair of Brits who are not journalists, but work in animal protection.

I switched to the speakers line and started talking with Mauri Koning, a Brazilian journalist and a member of this year's class of Cabot winners, Latin American journalism's highest honor.

He gave me the gift of a book he wrote that was just published on Thursday and that chronicles his travels around Brazil's borders, exposing prostitution and child trafficking.

The line was so long that the opening session began late.

While waiting I connected with Wayne, a Canadian expat who's living in the Ukraine after previous stints in Cambodia, Indonesia and Georgia. (The country, not the state.) He introduced me to Dmytro a Ukranian colleague who is working to start a public television show with about 20 other journalists in the region.

I asked Dmytro if there is a tradition in the Ukraine of funding non-profit ventures.

There's not a tradition of anything in the Ukraine, he answered wryly.

I assisted in a class that taught the participants about using Access, speaking and having lunch afterward with Lilia Saul, a Mexican journalist and daughter of a single mother who grew up in one of the areas most affected by the devastating earthquake of 1985.

The injustices she saw then and throughout her childhood motivated her to become a journalist.

I attended an afternoon session about how to use open records to document the movements of cargo around the world taught by Giannina Segnini, a whiz from Costa Rica.

The following session about how to investigative organized crimes included presentations from Sheila Colonel of the Philippines, Xanic von Bertrab from Mexico and Paul Radu from Romania.

During the presentation a journalist from Guinea-Bissau and one from Azerbaijan asked questions of the panel.

We all repaired to the reception, where I met, talked and laughed with colleagues and new friends from Bosnia, Ecuador, Argentina, Peru and Chile.

This of course says nothing about the Swedes and the Norwegians I met during the day.

In other words, it was an absolute stew of humanity gathered in one of the world's most vibrant cities under a common cause and mission.

The projects

The work people do is also thoroughly global in scope.

The continually unfolding offshore accounts project, spearheaded by the International Consortium of Investigative Journalists, has by latest count exposed the actions take by the ultra-wealthy in 50 countries.

It's the largest project they've ever done, Bill said.

Paul, the Romanian journalist, spoke about Investigative Dashboard, a tool he and his colleagues at the Organized Crime and Corruption Reporting Project have developed to help journalists around the world help their colleagues identify and understand criminals' actions by using public records.

While the ability that criminals have to be in many countries is an advantage for them, he said, it can also be a weakness as they are exposed in many places.

This leaves room for journalists to investigate.

Giannina's session tracked the movement of commerce, legal and illegal, all around the globe.

The risks

A sobering and inspiring part of the day was hearing about the very real costs and threats faced by journalists who do this worked.

Mauri and his family were threatened in December.

His wife left with their three-year-old son from Curatiba, the city where they were living, to Rio.

They've not come back, he told me, his eyes starting to water.

The journalist from Guinea-Bissau has been living in exile in France for four years after exposing government corruption in his homeland.

The woman from Azerbaijan has also been threatened.

Although there was a significant amount of talk about how the Internet and technology has facilitated finding out about people's wrongdoing, there was comparatively little discussion of computer coding. More conversation instead about shoe-leather and records-based reporting.

But the constant underlying message was about the general trend in the world toward greater openness and transparency and the impact the work, when done well, can have.

Xanic's investigation into Walmart with David Barstow of The New York Times earned them a Pulitzer Prize and deal the company a blow from which it is still trying to recover.

Sheila's work helped oust former dictator Ferdinand Marcos.

And Paul's team has actually helped prevent crime by showing the plan for an illicit bingo ring directed by convicted gangsters.

In short, it was a riveting, intensely stimulating and truly global day that I feel privileged to have attended, witnessed and, in a small way, contributed.

Day Two is tomorrow.

Chilean Chronicles, Part 73: Kindness Blooms From Veronica in Rio

Close to 20 years ago, a young student named Veronica boarded a plane in Brazil and flew to Massachusetts. Once there, she traveled to Wilbraham Monson Academy, a prep school in the community that was for years best known to the outside world as the home of Friendly's Ice Cream.

Just 15 years old, Veronica had never traveled that far away from home, and, while she liked the adventure, she also missed her family.

A lot.

But there were teachers at the school who looked out for her.

Dunreith was one of them.

Then a single mother of a 2-year-old boy, she listened to, and advocated for, Veronica.

Although she returned to her native country after the year ended, Veronica never forgot the support Dunreith gave her.

Fast forward 16 years.

My beloved mother-in-law Helen died in late September 2011, four short months after being diagnosed with a glioblastoma.

Now a single mother with two children of her own, Veronica again boarded a plane from Brazil and flew to Massachusetts to lend comfort to her mentor in her time of grief.

The gesture had its intended effect.

Veronica's presence and the love it contained gave Dunreith a balm on which she has drawn in the years since her mother's passage.

This afternoon, after a journey that began outside our apartment in Santiago at 5:45 a.m., Dunreith and I landed in Rio.

I'll be attending, teaching, speaking and participating in a hackathon at the Global Investigative Journalism conference here.

Veronica, who had flown up from Brasilia, met us at the gate and welcomed us to her country.

Early impressions of a place matter a lot.

Rio is pulsing with energy.

We drove past poor boys standing in the midst of four lanes of oncoming traffic selling small packets of food.

We saw cranes looming in the distance, the evidence of extensive construction being put in place for next year's World Cup, the 2016 Olympic Games and the city's overall growth and expansion.

We watched a car drive past us on the grass and sand before going back over the curb and into the standard traffic, and a helmet less bicyclist drive against the cars and past us.

People in Rio say that things will always work out in the end, Veronica said, laughing.

We checked into our hotel, which is on the beach.

We got our room and stepped out onto the balcony. We could see and hear the ocean.

Veronica walked with us to a nearby mall, where we strolled and found our first Brazilian meal.

I had a serving of rice and black beans with grilled chicken, and enjoyed the beans so much I had another serving.

Mostly, though, we sat and talked.

We discussed Veronica memories of Wilbraham Monson, how she remembers Dunreith as a strong woman, and moved from there to the position of women in Brazilian society.

Together we reflected on how we decide what we most want to contribute to the world in the time that we are given on the planet.

As she spoke and Dunreith listened, I could imagine them talking in a Wilbraham classroom almost two decades ago.

But whereas then the exchange was between a student and a teacher, now it was two women and mothers being with each other.

Veronica is not only giving us her time.

She is helping us navigate the challenges one inevitably faces, from hailing a taxi to successfully using an ATM, in a country where you have neither language nor experience.

And, perhaps even more important, she is working to make our time special by sharing what she loves about her home with us.

With each explanation of a Brazilian dish or sight that she shows us or person she introduces us to, Veronica is returning to Dunreith in a very real way the care my wife showed her 18 years ago.

It's a clear reminder that kindness, like seeds, can take years to flourish.

But the blooming, when it happens, can be drenched in beauty and meaning that is even greater because of the time that has passed since the initial contact.

The conference and our time with Veronica continues tomorrow.

I can't wait for both.

Chilean Chronicles, Part 72: Gains and Challenges for Transparency

Francisca Skoknic of CIPER. I`ve been digging in the past few weeks on my Fulbright research project about the impact of the 2009 Transparency Law here in Chile.

This week I had the good fortune to meet with Francisca Skoknic, reporter for investigative non-profit outfit CIPER. Although a small shop-Francisca told me on Tuesday that they´ve got a team of just 10 people-they are by far the nation´s leader in hard-hitting news stories.

I also spoke with Felipe Heusser, chief executive officer of Ciudadano Inteligente.org, an internationally-funded non-profit that seeks to use technology to distribute power to the citizenry via transparency, and Rodrigo Mora. He´s the head of Pro Acceso, another non-profit that receives its money from sources outside of Chile, Pro Acceso focuses on legal work to advance its mission of making more information public and expanding the parameters of material covered by the law.

Rodrigo Mora of Pro Acceso.

I´ll probably write individually about each of the latter three organizations, and for now here are the major points and current state of my thinking as the law heads toward the end of its fifth year of existence.

The good news

Each of these organizations is a part of a burgeoning civil society that is continuing to emerge in post-dictatorship Chile. Francisca, Rodrigo and Felipe all see the law as a fundamental tool in that process.

Each of the organizations uses the law in two primary ways. The first is to give it strength by having a steady volume of requests. Francisca said CIPER folks file requests daily, Felipe said Ciudadano Inteligente has helped citizens file about 1,000 requests thus far and Rodrigo spoken openly about bombarding agencies with requests on a designated topic so that officials there cannot ignore them.

The second method is to choose issues or aspects of the law that could lead to a lawsuit. CIPER was involved in a successful case against then-presidential candidate Sebastian Pinera around his refusal to disclose information about his foundation. The other two organizations were on the losing end of a Supreme Court decision that held that emails of public officials doing public business are not subject to the law.

More focused on documents than data, each organization uses the law as a tool both for present-day Chile as well as a part of the work of historic reconstruction of life during the Pinochet era.

Rodrigo mentioned that many documents about that time have recently been declassified, but have not yet been requested, while Francisca talked about the special section CIPER did for the fortieth anniversary of the coup. CIPER founder Monica Gonzalez, among other projects, played a critical role, along with John Dinges and Peter Kornbluh in bringing some of the regime´s foreign assassinations and the role of the United States to light.

Finally, all three people expressed a positive and optimistic sense of the direction the country is headed in regards to transparency. Francisca called the process ”irreversible".  Both Felipe and Rodrigo said there has been a lot of progress since the law´s inception.

Series of challenges

At the same time, the organizations and the people doing this work face a number of challenges.

To begin, each of the groups is small and comparatively under-resourced. Pro Acceso has a team of about 5 people, CIPER has but 10, while Ciudadano Inteligente is the biggest with about 17 or 18 employees, according to Felipe.

Their size means that they do not get to some of the projects they want to do.

CIPER would like to better integrate its requests and the documents they produce on its website, but have not yet gotten there due to focusing their limited resources on reporting, for example. Pro Acceso used to do more outreach than it did, and found that it had to focus more on the legal work itself.

A related corollary to this is that, even though they understand the value the community of computer hackers can bring to their work, they have not yet linked in meaningful ways to those people.

Pro Acceso´s difficulty with sustained outreach is both not limited to their organization and a symptom of another challenge: thus far the law has been largely a tool for elite Chileans. That is to say, that wealthier, more educated, digitally-connected people living in urban areas are far more likely to use the law than their poorer, rural, less wired countrymen.

The setback with the court´s decision about emails was a significant one.

In fact, Rodrigo said it was such a regressive decision that at times the folks at Pro Acceso are questioning the wisdom of having brought the case. That an increasing share of public business takes place online and that the case focused only on communication about public issues by public officials on public emails only heightens that concern.

Finally, CIPER is a glaring exception to a largely moribund press.

All three people talked about the concentration of major print media in Chile between COPESA and the Edwards family, owners of El Mercurio, and the resistance those entities have shown to pushing for more transparency. In fact, the editorial page of La Tercera, a COPESA property, sided with the government in the case involving emails.

It is important to note that there are individual journalists who use the law, and the number is few. There’s also the attitude Rodrigo said he’s encountered among journalists and that I heard echoed by a colleague that basically runs as follows: If I have to choose between waiting for more than a month to possible get information that my sources could probably get me in a day or two, I’m going with my sources.

In short, a picture is emerging of a small and dedicated band of transparency advocates, few of whom are journalists and most of whom are based in Santiago. They work in their own areas, and, in some cases, together to give the law meaning and to fight against continued resistance toward Chile’s continued movement into a more open society.

On to politicians and the government next.

To be continued.