Chilean Chronicles, Part XVII: Maria Eliana and Humberto's Many Gifts

Maria Eliana Eberhard and her husband Humberto gave us many gifts during our leisurely, languidly unfolding nine-hour afternoon and evening of eating, drinking, talking and driving on Saturday. Maria Eliana and Humberto before heading to their house.

They gave us unhurried time and unselfconscious generosity.

They introduced us to their new friend David Rojas and his lovely wife Maria Luz, whom they had met during a month-long tour of Eastern Europe that was headed by a former priest from Spain named Faustino.

Maria Luz and David enjoy the meal and the conversation.

They took us our first vineyard in Chile, the venerable Santa Rita vineyard that was founded in 1880 by Don Domingo Fernández Concha, and that has continued to grow and expand in the ensuing 130 years.

The view outside the Santa Rita vineyard.

They gave us the gift of a delicious lunch in a long, cool dining hall of a hacienda with high ceilings and a red stucco roof.

We missed the 3:00 p.m. tour by a full two hours, but we got plenty of education.

As with friend and colleague Alejandra Matus, Dunreith and I were treated to a virtual seminar in Chilean history during the past four decades.

We covered the key role Jose Toribio Merino played in the 1973 coup, the current presidential contest between Evelyn Matthei and Michelle Bachelet, the impact Pinochet had on the nation, whether they voted Si or No in 1988 to end Pinochet´s reign and the legacy of the Chicago Boys for the country.

The talk wasn´t all political, either.

Maria Eliana and Humberto shared humorous travel misadventures in Mexico and England, while David´s face glowed with pleasure as he talked about two of his three sons working with him in the same clinic where they are all neurosurgeons.

They talked about Chile’s emergence from a more isolated and less self-confident nation to one whose people are more assertive and forthright. (At the same time, they made it abundantly clear that whatever gains in self-confident have been made, the levels they demonstrate still pale in front of those exhibited by Argentinians).

Everyone laughed when I suggested that Dunreith has an Argentinian heart.

They welcomed us into their home and offered "the elevens", an expanded version of tea time, complete with more than a dozen tea choices, mashed avocado that looked like guacamole, ham and crunchy wheat bread in small, circular slices.

Humberto shared his passion for music, his face expanding with joy as he talked about Arthur Rubinstein´s virtuosity and played for us a song that evokes a smaller Moldovan river merging into the larger, crashing body of wáter, the music rising in a crescendo as the piece progresses.

Yet the biggest gift in all the extraordinary generosity they showed us was not about Chile.

It was about my father.

In 1984, Maria Eliana and Humberto packed up their belongings and their two young boys, took the money they had saved and the nanny they had hired, and moved to Boston for a year for training in their respective medical professions. (Maria Eliana is an anesthetist, while Humberto is a cardiologist.)

Maria Eliana worked in the laboratory of Warren Zapol, one of Dad´s closest friends.

Humberto did not work with Dad, but talked about meeting him.

“Did your father have a small office?” he asked.

I said that he did.

Humberto described how he had entered the area before Dad’s office and seen his two secretaries, the notoriously straight-laced Ilse Kaprelian, a German woman who was married to an Armenian motorcycle rider named Gil, and the wisecracking Louise Hotz.

Humberto explained that he felt intimidated for a number of reasons.

He was not in the same field as Dad.

His English was limited.

And Dad was a professor.

With trepidation he opened the door.

What he saw astounded him.

There were papers and books everywhere, stretching all the way up to the ceiling.

On the desk.

On the couches.

On the seats.

Then he met Dad, who had apparently just come from the operating room.

Humberto knew this because Dad was wearing a puffy blue hat that Humberto was more accustomed to seeing on the head of a Chilean woman.

This was the professor? He wondered.

Dunreith told the table that, before he left Massachusetts General Hospital, Dad was given stationary with a cartoon version of a glasses-wearing Dad being buried in a sea of paper over the words, ¨From the desk of Ed Lowenstein.”

But then Humberto talked about how friendly and down-to-earth Dad was, how he treated him with dignity and respect and welcomed him into the community of doctors at one of the world’s most prestigious hospitals..

Maria Eliana echoed the same sentiments.

I´ve come to learn in life that the family that we know in our homes is only a part of them, and, more than that, that we leave parts of ourselves with people with whom we interact and share meaningful moments. .

Although the time has long since passed since I have hungered to know Dad, that was indeed the case for many years. One of the greatest benefits of working in his laboratory for two summers during college was that it gave me an opportunity to see how he was at work and what he meant to the people there.

Your dad´s a regular guy like us, my colleagues would say quietly. He´s not like a lot of those other doctors who think they´re better than us.

He takes public transportation, another told me.

One man, a Hungarian immigrant, told me about how Dad stuck up for him when he was working on an experiment and a doctor said that he was doing it wrong. Your father said, Joe is right, the man told me, his stocky body suffused with gratitude.

Nearly 30 years after I worked in the blood gas lab, I have a better sense both of the impressiveness of Dad´s accomplishments as well as the importance of what he gave to Humberto and Maria Eliana.

Dad came to the United States after fleeing Nazi Germanny on a program called the Kindertransport, I told the group. He never forgot what it was like to be a refugee in a new and unfamiliar country.

The conversation passed and we moved on to five more hours of the marathon visit.

But the gift of letting me know my father in just a slightly different way, remained.

Chilean Chronicles, Part XVI: First Day Teaching Jitters

The first day butterflies never really go away. I first taught nearly 30 years ago, at Bellehaven Child Development Center in East Menlo Park. Four afternoons a week during my sophomore year at college I mounted my bike and pumped away from Stanford’s red stucco buildings and palm-tree laced roads. Ideals of social justice, a desire to erase my white privilege, and a burgeoning love of working with children propelled me.

I biked across the bridge that ran over Route 101, past the adolescent boys on Terminal Avenue who lazily threw rocks at me, and arrived at the center.

Silence greeted me.

Hands outstretched or folded neatly underneath one of their cheeks, the 30 children looked like sleeping angels. Their skin tones ranged from mocha to copper to dark black. The window shades draped the room in darkness.

Willie, a bass-voiced childhood friend of Grateful Dead guitarist Bob Weir, and Winetta, a hefty single mother whose ferocity masked her affection for the children, were the teachers. They circulated throughout the room, rousing the children from their post-lunch naps.

The three- to five-year olds stood up like newborn foals. Clearing the crust from their eyes, they stretched their arms above their heads in a continuous fluid movement. They pulled their cots to Winetta, who stacked them in neat rows of ten, and assembled in a circle on the brown rug in the center of the room.

Willie turned on the record player and placed the needle delicately on the album. The sounds of Michael Jackson’s “Thriller” filled the room. Myisha, Shawneequa and the rest of the children clapped for each other as each of them took their turn in the middle of the carpet.

Michael was their favorite. Twirling and break dancing with a vengeance, his signature move was a 360 degree knee spin. He yielded the floor only after Willie insisted.

I stood at the edge of the circle, transfixed. I did not ask questions about their family’s incomes. Nor did I wonder why only two of the children ever had fathers pick them up, or why the kids wore the same clothes day after day and at times smelled unwashed.

I just knew that I was where I belonged, in a place where my values and the people I was spending time with and the pleasure in being with the children all converged.

Yet as much as I enjoyed being among the children, I also felt nervous the first time I moved from observing to leading a group.

I felt nerves two years later, when I took over a lesson for Paul Tamburello, my fourth grade and mentor teacher, and when handled recess duty on my own.

I felt them in the fall of 1989, when I strode around the empty room of desks at Newton North High School, where I did my student teaching,

My stomach tingled with nervous anticipation in August 1992, when I arranged the chairs in my first classroom as a full-time teacher at Brown Middle School in Newton.

The same sensation filled me in August 1995, when I prepared to teach students at the Uthongathi School in Tongaat, South Africa, in the fall of 1997, before I gave my initial session for Facing History and Ourselves, and in the summer of 2001, as I got ready to teach at Longmeadow High School in Western Massachusetts.

A dozen years later, those nerves are still there.

Tomorrow, I´ll teach my first class in Data Journalism at the University of Diego Portales.

The class will be different than the others that I´ve given in that it´ll be in Spanish.

That´s a minor source of anxiety, and I know both that I can communicate well enough and that I´ll make some grammatical errors.

On the most basic level, my nerves are a combination of caring, insecurity, and belief in education´s mission, of wanting very much to make a difference in the students´ lives and wondering if I´ll be able to do just that.

In a commentary he wrote for the Brookline Tab and later read on public radio station WBUR before the beginning of his final year of teaching at Pierce School, Paul Tamburello wrote the following:

How did the years go by so swiftly, how much have I accomplished, what's my place in the pantheon of my school's history? More importantly what's my place in the personal pantheons of the hundreds of fourth graders whom I've taught, advised, disciplined, and eaten lunch with for the past 33 years.

For me, the questions are slightly different as I´ve moved in the past decade away from full time teahing and more and more into writing, and the wondering what dent we´ve had and will make on the world through our students is the same.

While it helps to know that we´ve delivered the goods before, each group is a separate adventure, with new actors and as yet unknown challenges.

At 3:30 p.m. the students will file in and take their seats.

Standing in front of them, full of hope, belief and, yes, some nerves, I´ll be there, too.

Chilean Chronicles XV: Cine Migrante and Tenderness Surviving

Santiago's first film festival about migrants runs through Wendesday. “Somehow we survive, and tenderness, frustrated, does not wither,” wrote Dennis Brutus, the late, great South African poet about his beloved homeland during the dark days of apartheid.

Brutus’ words came to me Friday evening after Dunreith and I attended the screening of two short and one long film at Santiago’s Museum of Memory and Human Rights.

The films were part of the city’s first-ever CineMigrante, an eight-day film festival dedicated to showing the lives and experiences of migrants around the globe. Launched in Argentina, the festival is spreading to Latin American nations. The Santiago rendition draws on the best films from the Argentine showings from the past three years.

In all, dozens of movies about from African, Central and South America and Europe will be shown at three venues across the city. CineMigrante also has a series of panels about issues involving migrants.

A number of the movies deal with issues happening now in Chile, and the ones we saw were set in different parts of Mexico.

The first, 72, is Jorge Michel Grau’s fictional rendering of a 2010 massacre of migrants by the Zetas. The films shows in unflinching detail the victims’ final minutes, and, in the case of two of them, an evocation of their afterlife. Blindfolded, their hands tied behind their back, bound to another migrant and hearing the sounds of point-blank murder all around them, the largely anonymous characters are going through an unspeakable ending to their lives.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yDBlXP_Mp_w&w=420&h=315]

Amidst the infernal circumstances, a couple calls out to each other.

Roberto? A woman calls.

Olga? He answers.

Roberto lurches toward his love-a move that at first elicits a blow from a rifle, and, a minute later, a fatal shot.

Recognizing Olga’s terror, the man who is tied to Roberto continues to move him toward her and starts to talking to her in the voice of her just murdered lover.

I’m here, he says. Everything’s fine. We’re going to be together.

This gesture of compassion calms Olga, who appears without her blindfold and looks with equal sensitivity at the man just before she is killed.

Grau then shows both characters submerged and sinking underwater, volumes of bubbles issuing forth from their mouths, connecting for just an instant before Grau shows up the final grim and haunting image of the murdered man face down on the ground.

El Tren de Las Moscas, a Spanish documentary, deals with the daily generosity displayed by las patronas, a group of women in Amatlán, Veracruz who try to keep migrants alive.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQLFJGp9AMo&w=420&h=315]

Their vehicle: distributing the 200 meals of rice and beans and dozen of bottles of water to the Mexican and Central Americans passing by on trains heading north as they pursue “El Sueño Americano,” or the American Dream.

The work is neither safe nor easy.

El Tren shows the women cooking and packing the food in a 21st century version of the Model-T assembly line. Once their goods are ready, they venture as close as possible to the track that carries the migrants, then pass out the food and water as fast as they can.

Sometimes the connection is not made.

Sometimes the patronas are knocked backwards, or fall to the ground.

The women will never meet the people they are helping.

But they know their aspirations and their suffering, and they hear the calls of gratitude.

The women also believe from their faith that they consider the migrants to be people who are worthy of dignity and respect.

Those qualities are in scarce supply, especially for women, throughout the more than 5,000-mile journey from Central America through Mexico to its northern border with the United States.

Maria en Tierra de Nadie, Marcela Zamora Chamorro’s 86-minute film, tells that harrowing story through the eyes of three women.

One of the women leaves her home in search of her daughter, who had not been in touch with her mother for years after she ventured north.

The mother, who travels with a group of parents in the same situation, carries a picture of her daughter with her.

The other group members also carried pictures of their disappeared loved ones, and hold vigils, advocate with local officials, and carry a large sign that say, ”¿Dónde están?” Where are they?

If their daughters have met the fate of many of the other women we meet in the film, they have lost limbs, been forced into prostitution, kidnapped by the Zetas, sexually assaulted or murdered.

Martha and Sandra are the other two women who are the focus of the film both are raped after they leave abusive husbands and seek a better future for their families.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42h0xu_epWI&w=420&h=315]

After reaching a rare safe spot for migrants, Sandra despairs of being able to raise the $3,000 necessary to cross the border.

Instead, she decides to set off on her own.

Martha bursts into tears and leaves the room, unable to watch the friend with whom she has endured so much walk off to almost certain doom.

As the film ends, we learn that the filmmakers have been unable to locate Sandra since 2009.

Although difficult to watch, the movies are a powerful reminder of the grinding conditions that propel women to leave their homes and families, the incessant peril they experience along the way and those moments, people and places-a compassionate glance before an inevitable assassination, a mother’s ceaseless search for her daughter, the exchange of a bags of rice and beans are just three-that are the tenderness that survives amidst unimaginable brutality.

The festival concludes Wednesday.

Happy Birthday, Mom!

Mom in about 1980. Life feels more precious every year.

Part of that feeling stems from the recognition that we have finite time on the earth, and thus every year of life completed means inevitably that we have that much less time to live.

It also comes from the understanding that the answer to many of life’s largest questions of life partners, whether to have children, and, if so, how many, and what one’s work passion to bring to the world; have been strongly, if not permanently answered.

This conversion from potential to actual, from the infinite number of people who could be one’s spouse to the one you make up next to in the morning, from the potential number of children you could have to the son you Skype with while you are both in distant lands, for me has had the effect of getting even more involved in the particulars of my life.

For me, the third part of this is what James Carroll called the sharpening sense, that gradually more acute sense that hopefully we arrive at of what matters most to us, and then, from there, to having our daily activities correspond with our most central priorities.

It is because of this feeling of heightened gratitude that I feel particularly fortunate to be able to wish Alice Adelman Elizabeth Lowenstein a glorious 76th birthday today.

In October I will turn 48 years old, the same age that Mom was when she was involved in a near-fatal auto accident in New Hampshire.

The only reason the paramedics gave Mom an even 1 percent chance of living is that they were out on the road, responded immediately and saved her life.

Mom had an arduous recovery from the broken ribs, collarbone, and other physical damage she sustained, and, in some ways, the hardest road for her has come from the massive closed head injury she sustained when the car she was in with Dad swerved over the center line on a snowy President’s Day and was slammed into by an oncoming car with a snow plough on the front.

Because of her head injury Mom lost all language.

Because of her bodily wounds, she could not walk.

This meant that, in middle age, with three adolescent and young adult sons, she had to learn again how to stand, move, and talk.

None of that was easy, and, over time, Mom has made an astounding improvement due both to her prodigious will, desire to heal and willingness to try and do anything she could find to get better, and to her access to some of the world’s finest health care.

Indeed, just as the paramedics who did not know Mom save her life, so too did a chain of strangers she did not personally know, but who did their job as doctors, as nurses, as physical and occupational therapists help her regain as much as she has.

Mom’s accident and subsequent recovery has been a defining experience in her life and for us as a family, but It’s far from the only.

She’s shown her capacity to marshal her resources and focus her will on the challenges she’s encountered in the more than quarter century since the life-altering day in February 1986.

When the house in which she had lived for 20 years had structural problems that could have caused her serious financial problems, she rapidly made the decision to sell it and moved to another home in Brookline.

When she learned she had adult onset diabetes, she altered her diet, shed close to 100 pounds and has kept most of the weight off since.

When her heart was failing and her hip was hurting so badly she could barely walked, she had a pacemaker and a new hip installed in separate, then set about the business of accepting, yet also pushing, her new physical limits.

In short, Mom’s shown us again and again how you confront the obstacles you encounter in life and figure out how best to deal with them.

If this were all that Mom had done, it alone would be a tremendous example for us to follow.

But, along, the way, she’s also shifted to become more inclusive of all of us in her life’s activities and key decisions.

And, perhaps even more important, she has, after many years, learned how to enter each day from a place of gratitude that is enhanced by the knowledge of where she has been and how far she has ventured from those dark and difficult days at a number of different points in her life.

It’s been a joy to watch her become more and more filled with joy as she holds Mike’s son Matthew, shows off the latest addition to her hat collection, asks about the latest development in my life during our morning phone conversations and cackles as she recounts the latest compliment she received for one of her flamboyant outfits. (“You can’t get better than that,” she’ll say before erupting into body-shaking laughter.)

Mom is out in San Francisco today, marking the completion of one year of life and the beginning of another with Shan Shan, Annie’s mother.

Dunreith and I spoke with her and everyone else for a while this evening on Skype.

She told us who had been at the apartment, what she ate and how Matthew repeatedly put his finger in her mouth and looked to do the same with her fingers.

Mom's being alive 27 years after she nearly died is a gift.

That she could be with Mike, his family and Jon is another.

And that we could connect across countries, time zones and thousands of miles is a third.

Happy Birthday, Mom.

We are grateful each day for your life and your love.

Chilean Chronicles, Part XIV: Bar Liguria and the Power of Place

Some bars just have it. That combination of noise and brightness and darkness and alcohol and food and colors and smells and seats and music that just allow you to relax, engage in stimulating and expansive conversation, and, on some basic level, be who you truly are.

Here in Santiago, the Bar Liguria near the Manuel Montt Metro station is one of those places.

I’ve been there twice in the past three evenings.

Even though the company was different both times, I emerged with a similar uplifted feeling.

On Tuesday I met with Eduardo Riveros, founder and head of VisionBionica.com, and his friend Geishy Rondon.

Eduardo Riveros and Geishy Rondon.

Eduardo and I had connected at last week’s Data Tuesday at the Movistar Innova space further south on Providencia Avenue.

He had told me about his work with augmented reality, a technology that allows him or whoever else who uses to essentially embed additional images, video or a web site on a print page.

Short and energetic , Eduardo has a high-pitched laugh and moves his hands in decisive motions. He had prepared a sample page from an award-winning Chicago Tribune project friends and colleagues Gary Marx, Alex Richards and David Jackson did last year about school truancy in the city.

Eduardo Riveros demonstrates augmented reality.

Eduardo pointed his phone at the page.

Three circles swirled on the phone’s face.

Then the options appeared.

One was Gary’s Twitter account so that people who enjoyed the article could then write a Tweet or send a direct message to Gary.

The second was a video with Diane Sawyer about the Chicago Public Schools’ teacher strike last fall.

And the third was a YouTube video of an irate CPS student berating a teacher and walking out of the classroom.

All available for consumption.

Eduardo explained that he had developed a tourism site for Santiago where, while you were in one place, you could point your phone at that landmark and a bunch of other sights to see in the city would appear.

I asked Eduardo what had prompted him to go into this area of work.

He explained that he’s Chilean with Venezuelan roots and had just spent a decade in Chavezlandia, much of it going between Barinas y Cumaná.

Although he enjoyed the people and has many warm memories of his time there, the country’s relentless violence hit him directly.

Two friends were killed, and he had a gun pointed at his neck.

The last experience prompted Eduardo to get out of on the street reporting and into learning how to tell stories through augmented reality and other means.

His journey led him to earn a Master´s degree in Communication from the University of Havana-Castro’s Cuba and Chavez’s Venezuela had many cultural, academic and social exchanges-to gain certification from Junaio, a German company that he said is considered the top in the world, and to take online courses from Stanford.

Eduardo had also invited Geishy Rondon, a friend who had just earned a diploma in Chile and found work at the Telethon.

Geishy explained that while she had not herself been a victim of violence in her native Venezuela, the pervasiveness of it and the volume of incidents she witnessed and walked by were such that she wants to stay here, rather than return to her homeland.

Huddled around the sturdy wooden tables, leaning in to hear each other over the steady rumble of other customers. In addition to their work, we talked about the political situation in Venezuela and the seismic difference in charisma between the late Hugo Chavez and Nicolas Maduro, his comparatively pedestrian successor.

If Tuesday night’s conversation focused on work, social violence and politics, Thursday evening was like a river with many dips and bends that flowed fast and wide.

In addition to Dunreith, fellow Fulbrighter Stephen Sadlier, Gonzalo Salazar and his lovely wife Jacqui, a Brit, joined us.

Dunreith and Jacqui at Bar Liguria.

We met Gonzalo and Jacqui last week at the civil registry, where we were going through distinct yet related Chilean bureaucratic challenges, and it turned out later that Steve shared those same struggles with Dunreith and me. Gonzalo, who was born in Chile to a wealthy family, has a British and Chilean passport. The Chilean one has expired, yet he explained that this is the only country in the world in which he is considered Chilean. As a result, if he left the country, he’d not be permitted back in because of his expired passport.

Like Steve, Dunreith and I were trying to have our visa be successfully entered at the civil registry.

Like him, we had had each finger and thumb dipped in black ink.

Like him, we were told that the stamp the Chilean authority put on our passport was not legible.

We prevailed upon the woman, perhaps the same one as Steve has encountered in his visits, to not have us got back to the federal police station where we had been the day before.

She consented, but she told us we had to check online to make sure the task was completed by August 8, adding that we would have to start all over again if it was not.

I ran out to the gate to go to the store around the corner to make an additional copy of the document the women said she needed.

On Thursday night, though, administrative difficulties were the last topic on the proverbial table for discussion. To give a representative sample, we took a deep dive into family history-Steve comes from Haitian Creole and Catalonian stock, while Gonzalo can trace his roots back to the eighth century with documents and talked about an ancestor who fathered 120 children-before tackling national and regional levels of self-esteem in Chile and the United States.

Steve Sadlier and Gonzalo Salazar. Steve asserted that Americans are fascinated with death and being victims.

Together, we talked about some of the major items Chile has exported to the rest of Latin America and the world: a roster of poets that extends deep beyond Gabriela Mistral and Pablo Neruda; Mistral’s progressive educational vision; and the Chicago Boys’ model of economic stabilization and a certain technocratic sensibility.

Whereas Tuesday I had a rich stout, on Thursday we had a strong pisco sour and the first carmenere wine I’ve ever drunk to accompany a plate of goat cheese and macha a la parmesana.

Thursday night also saw a band of older men playing traditional Chilean folk music, along with the theme from the Godfather, at a volume that made it increasingly difficult to hear each other.

The cueca band at Bar Liguria play their tunes.

We kept talking, though.

The truth is that I don’t know either how often I’ll see Eduardo, Geishy, Gonzalo, Jacqui or Steve again, or how deep the ties will go if we do.

But what eventually becomes of our relationships is not the point.

Rather it’s that in a period of transition, at different stages of our lives, from countries around the globe, we met, we drank, and we shared time that was both memorable and invigorating.

Bar Liguria’s welcoming environment helped make that happen.

We’ll be back.